Amaryllis

classical name). Amarylliddcea. Bulbous plants from Cape of Good Hope, flowering in late summer or in fall, the lvs. appearing later. Perianth with a short ribbed tube, the divisions oblong or lanceo late, the filaments distinct and no scales between them, fls. 5-12, in an umbel, on a tall scape. Monogr. by Her bert, Amaryllidaceae, 1837 ; and by Baker, Handbook of the Amaryllideze. In dealing with the culture of Amaryllls, it is cus tomary to speak of the genus in its horticultural sense, —to include Hippeastrum and related things. Such is the understanding in the following cultural directions. There are two widely differing methods of cultivating the Amaryllls to produce showy flowers in the spring months.— the border method and the pot method. Any one trying both of these methods will soon come to the conclusion that they difler not only in method, but in flower-producing results. The flrst method is to plant the bulbs out in a prepared border after they are done flowering, say about the middle of May. The border selected should have perfect drainage, and, if convenient, be situated on the south side of a house or wall, fully exposed to the sun during the greater part of the day. The bulbs are set out in rows, necessarily with as little disturbance of the roots as possible, because if they are bulbs which have undergone similar treat ment the previous year, by the middle of May they have made a considerable number of new roots; besides, the foliage also has gained some headway, and may be con sidered in the midst of actual growth. In planting, care fully flrm the soil around the old balls, give one water ing, and on the succeeding day, after the surface of the soil has been raked over, cover to the depth of 2 inches with half-decayed cow manure. With frequent waterings during the summer and the re moval of weeds, they will need no more at tention until the ap proach of cool weather, when they should be lifted, sized, and pot ted; however, at this season, if wet weather h a s predominated, some of the bulbs will be in a semi-dormant state, while the ma jority will yet be in active growth. Here is the drawback to this method : the roots are large and fleshy, they take up considerable room in a 6- or 7-inch pot, and the soil can not be evenly distrib uted amongst them, neither can it he made as flrm as it should be. The result is the par tial decay of the roots and leaves. and in the spring,when the flower scapes appear, they are developed at the expense of the bulb, through having insufiicient roots to take up nour ishment from the soil. The flowers which are produced are small, few in number, and do not show what the 77. Amaryllis Belladonna. Amaryllis is capable of. To partly ameliorate these con ditions, the bulbs in active growth at lifting time may be heeled-in on a greenhouse bench until they gradu ally ripen, taking care that some of the soil is retained on the roots; otherwise the ripening process is altogether too rapid, so that the roots and leaves suddenly lose their robust nature, become flabby, and eventually die. For this method, it can be said that a larger number of bulbs can be grown with less trouble than by the pot method, but neither bulbs nor flowers compare in size with those kept in pots the year round. For the purpose of simply increasing stock, the outdoor method is to be preferred. Most of the kinds are naturally evergreen; potting under those conditions is best done either after the plants have made their growth in the fall or after they have finished flowering in April. When done in the fall, they are al lowed to remain rather dry during t-he winter; this will keep the soil of the original ball in a sweet condition until the time arrives to start them into growth, which may be anywhere after the 1st of January, or even earlier if necessary. They will winter all right, and keep their foliage, in a brick frame in which the temperature is not allowed to fall below 45° F. By the beginning of February, in a structure of this sort, they will be showing flower-scapes, and should then be taken to a position where more heat and light can be given. A weak solu tion of cow-manure will much help the development of the flowers. When in bloom, a greenhouse tempera ture, with slight shade, will prolong the flowering period. After flowering, the greatest care should be taken of the plants, as it is from that period till the end of summer that the principal growth is made. A heavy loam, en riched with bone-dust and rotted cow-manure, suits them well. The seeds of Hippeastruma should be sown as soon as ripe, covered very lightly with flnely sifted leaf-mold, and if this shows a tendency to dry too quickly, cover with panes of glass until germination takes place. As soon as the flrst leaves are developed, they should be potted in the smallest sized pits and kept growing. In the propagation of varieties, it will be found that the large bulbs make two or more otfsets each season; these should not be detached until it is certain that they have enough roots of their own to start with after being separated from the parent. If a well-flowered specimen clump is desired, the oflsets may be allowed to remain attached to the parent; they will, in most cases, flower the second year under generous treatment. Amaryllis Belladonna. and the plant known as A. Iongillora (really a Crinum) are hardy in the District of Columbia; A. Iongiflora thrives even in damp, heavy soils, with no protection, and flowers abundantly each year. The seeds are about the size of a chestnut, and if not gathered as soon as ripe, they are apt to germinate on the surface of the ground during the next rainy spell succeeding the ripening. A. Belladonna needs a warm, sheltered spot, with dee/P P1“mi“l§- Cult. by G. W. Ouvna.